March 19, 2016
I'm writing this months after our trip to Virginia in the spring. I'm not sure why it's taken me so long to write about our last full day in Virginia. I reread the blog to remember where I left off. While reading, I realized how horribly I write when on vacation. Typos galore! I guess when you're enjoying a trip, you're more worried about spending time where you are rather than writing about it. I usually proof read, but that goes out the window when on vacation. Anyway, where were we-- ah, Virginia.
Jason and I began our morning in a beautiful, yet dreary setting. The cloudy sky covered the town and the rolling winds were chillier than usual. Unlike many trips prior, I remembered to bring a jacket and a good pair of shoes for inclement weather--something I'm almost never likely to remember. Our weather apps indicated snow this morning. Although we had yet to see any, we were concerned our adventures would have to be deterred. Jason, always being prepared for anything, reassured me we would be alright and have fun no matter the weather. So, we began our day as we planned--enjoying a good meal together.
We love the Clock Tower. It's a restaurant in the center of town, right below Staunton's actual Clock Tower. We left the hotel and made our way to lunch. The streets were vacant and glistening with wet brick as tiny raindrops fell from the overcast sky. We were the first customers of the day. A British man greeted us--the same one who waited on us the first time we visited Staunton. He seated us close to where we sat for our first visit to the Clock Tower. It felt as though we were stepping back in time for brief moment.
Our appetizer: Crispy Smoked Pork Spring Rolls with a Thia Chili Sauce.
Jason's Turkey sandwich and house chips.
Each and every time we visit Virginia, the state for love, we always find a potato chip in the shape of a heart. Never fails.
My potato soup.
As Jason and I enjoyed our warm meal, the weather turned from trickling rain to cascading snow. Large, clumps of white snowflakes briskly pass by the Clock Tower windows. Jason and I watched, amazed by the speed of each snowflake. In Georgia the snow is slow and light--we've never seen such vigorous snowfall. Although our camera tried it's best to capture the beautiful scene, it was too slow to keep up with each passing snowflake.
After lunch we planed to go to Mount Vernon to see Washington's home. It's a three hour drive from Staunton. Although excited to see snow, we were concerned the rain would prevent us from driving. We decided to take the chance anyway, hoping Virginia to be better equipped to manage snow than Georgia. In the end, it was a beautiful drive filled with fields of snow and frosty farms.
This last picture (seen above) is one of my favorites of our drive. Thick waves of fog poured in over the Virginia hills as we made our way to Mount Vernon. As we left Staunton and the flog began to clear, we found the snow returning to rainfall. Our concerns for our drive soon melted, along with the snowflakes. So we set off for Washington's at full force.
It was a long drive. At first it was lovely, fun, and gave us time to talk and laugh. The closer we came to Mount Vernon, the farther away it felt, however. The traffic became horrendous. We began to worry we would miss our chance to tour Mount Vernon. We purchased tickets for a 4 O'clock tour. Time was fast approaching as we stood still in a sea of cars. I began to understand road rage and disappointment as my hope for seeing Washington's home began to slip away. Out of pure luck, Jason and I arrived at Mount Vernon at 4:05.
We ran toward the entrance of the home. We opened the glass doors and were met with security guards who searched our bags. They then pointed us toward a long walkway which led to the actual house. We ran again to find a flood of people roaming the grounds. We weren't sure where to go at first until we found a man gathering groups of people for tours. We quickly walked toward him and handed him the tickets. He informed us that our tour already began and we would have to find them. He used his walkie talkie to inform someone of our arrival. He then pointed us to a woman across the yard, holding a black umbrella.
We met the woman and she reassured us that she would find our group. She told us to follow her as she took off at great speed. She weaved in and out of large groups of people, almost knocking a woman over as she power walked across the yard. The woman made an angry expression and let out an exclamation as we soared past her. Our fast-pasted umbrella guide walkie talkied to someone as we neared the house. Our guide stopped without warning at a back door and turned to us with a smile. She opened the door and whispered that we made it. We thanked her and watched as she disappeared almost magically--never have I seen a human being walk that fast.
We made our way down some wooden steps into what appeared to be a basement. There was a small group of people huddled together in a dark room. Our tour guide welcomed us as we walked toward them. She told us we made great time and hadn't missed anything other than when the group was browsing the outside of the home. Unfortunately no pictures were allowed throughout the house. I wish we could have captured the beauty and simplicity of Washington's home in a photograph--it was truly lovely and surprising. I always assumed Washington's house would be even grander than Thomas Jefferson's. And, although it was very lovely, it's charm was found more in the simplicity of it's design rather than it's ornate decoration.
The rooms were small with low ceilings. The paint was subtle and the decorations were a record of Washington's life, unlike Jefferson's whose belongings were representations of his proud interests rather than his life. Our guide showed us the basement, where food and alcohol was stored. We were fascinated as she explained that the water, a basic necessity for life, was unsafe to drink during this time period. Because of this, the people drank beer and wine as a source of hydration and nutrition. Jason and I later discussed how rampant alcoholism must have been; what damage this must have caused to their health, to be without clean water.
Our tour guide led us up some stairs and out into the yard again. We rounded the house and found ourselves at the entrance. It was lovely and the view was breathtaking. Pictures could not do it justice, but we tried.
Our tour guide asked us to join the line already started by other groups in front of the house. We stared at the beautiful view of the Potomac river as we waited. We decided we would take a picture of the front of the house later on, once the tour had ended. Unfortunately, we were never able to. However, because the Internet is wonderful, I did discover this picture:
It was beautiful. Our tour guide said Washington specifically asked for a special design for the outside of his home. The house was made of wood, but they coated the outside of the home with a glue-like substance. They did this so that as they strewn sand across the wood it would stick, creating a unique texture like stone. The glass windows were also very lovely. Each pane was filled with small imperfections, ripples, and waves.
Soon we were led to the inside of the mansion. We walked into a bright rectangular room. They call it the "New Room." It was the last room built in the house and, although still fairly simple compared to Jefferson's, was the grandest room of the house. They showed us the paintings he acquired, and explained what significance they held to Washington. The walls were green and the windows were tall and lovely, allowing cool breezes to float through the house. It was beautiful.
We then visited the west parlor and the little parlor. Each were small, square rooms with simple designs and lovely decorations. These rooms were where he had tea and stored musical instruments for times of singing and dancing.
We then made our way to the entrance hall where a large, wooden staircase spilled out toward the door. It was a lovely entryway. Our tour guide pointed to an item on the wall by the stairs. It was a large, caste iron key contained in a glass frame.
It's the key to the Bastille, given by Marquis de Lafayette in 1790 at the time of France's own revolution. He and Washington were close, and he mailed the key to him. The same key still remains at the very spot Washington originally hung it. Each of us took a brief moment to look at the key before climbing the charming wooden staircase. Once at the top (the second story), we were shown five different bedrooms. One room was called the Lafayette room--where a certain French General staid when visiting Washington. There were, however, a total of six bedrooms on the second floor. The last bedroom belonged to Washington and his wife.
Their room was simple, functional, and lovely. This is where he was said to have died from a throat infection. After Washington passed away, his wife closed the room up and never used it again. She found a new room for herself on the third floor, also very lovely and simple. We walked up the last staircase to a beautiful opening at the top of the house. Directly across from the landing was a room they called "The Bull's Eye Room." It was called this because of the beautiful circular window, resembling a bull's eye, that was overlooked the courtyard. This is where they stored their dishes and china.
Along with this room, there were numerous others. Two other storage rooms were on the highest level and could be seen on the left and right. There were also a couple of bedrooms, one where Martha slept after he passed away. The most striking part of the house--in my opinion--was the Cupola. This is a difficult thing to describe. I found a picture to give you a better idea of it:
Directly in the middle of the third floor landing was a small ladder, which lead to this lookout point. This was create to help with controlling the temperature of the mansion. The windows drew hot air up and out of the house. It was a truly unique and striking part of the home. Four sets of stairs in this home, if you count the ladder to the Cupola. Martha lived a long life and died at the age of 71. Our tour guide remarked at how incredibly fit she must have been--climbing three flights of stairs numerous times a day. I can't imagine.
After seeing the entire third floor, we returned to the second and traveled to the end of the hallway to find another staircase by Washington's room. These stairs led to a small dinning room, a guest bedroom, and then to George Washington's study. Our tour guide informed us that no one was allowed into the study without a direct invitation from Washington--this included his wife. This room is where he bathed, stored his clothing, and and dressed each day.
His study included an entire wall, covered in books. Our guide said it was not uncommon for books to be piled up on the floor by the bookcase.
Our favorite part of the study was the fan above Washington's desk. It was very unique. Washington used a fan which could be waved back and forth by pressing his feet on a peddle. The fan was placed directly above his chair, so to cast a cool breeze directly above him. This allowed him to stay cool while his hands were free to write letters.
Our guide walked us to a door at the opposite end of the study. This door opened itself to the butler's pantry. This is where china was stored and where evidence of a bell system can still be seen. After passing this small room, we were led back outside and to the courtyard. When people came to visit Washington, this was where horses and buggies would gather to load and unload their guests. It was lovely. Here are the pictures we took of the outside of the home:
It's lovely. Our guide walked us to the side of the house where small gardens were. Jason and I had hoped to walk through the gardens and the rest of his property after the tour ended. Unfortunately we were the last tour of the day. Our guide was already walking us back toward the entrance and away from the mansion and gardens. We vowed to come back and arrive early next time, so we may see the entire property and not just the home itself. I have to say--it was still worth the drive and the frustration to see the little we did. It was just lovely.
As we made our way toward the security guards who checked us in, our tour guide informed us that the gift shop would be open for another 15 minutes, should we like to make any purchases. Jason and I were very excited to browse through the shop. We weaved in and out of a crowd of people, all hurrying to grab items with just 15 minutes left for browsing. It was like an episode of Supermarket Sweep. Jason and I found some more historic chocolate. We also grabbed a bag of cornmeal, apple wine, and some holiday spice wine (which was utterly amazing!). The last thing we purchased was our favorite and is now hanging up in our living room--an exact replica of the Bastille Key.
We grabbed our items and headed to check out. An older gentleman was running the very last remaining register. He frantically was boxing and bagging everything within reach, probably hoping to be able to close up shop on time. He thanked us, handed us our items, and quickly moved onto the next customer. We made our way toward the exit.
After exiting the grounds, we made our way to the car and headed back to Staunton. To be honest, this car ride was probably my favorite part of the day. This is where Jason and discussed everything we saw and heard on the tour. It's one thing to experience something, but it's another to let what you saw impact you--to stir up thoughtful and challenging conversation. That's what I love about being married to Jason--our discussions. I like hearing his perspective and getting to tell mine. I like learning history and then trying to find the meaning it might give to our own time. Our ride back gave us the opportunity to think about those very things.
Jason and I talked a lot about the differences between Washington and Jefferson--how even their homes and belongings showed the character of the men themselves. Jefferson was a proud man, who liked to be admired and seen as an intellectual. His books were proudly on display and his belongings were talking pieces, giving him the opportunity to inform others of his vast knowledge and great fame--nevermind his vast dent to attain this image. Washington, however, was private--his books hidden in a secluded study. Although known to be an unquestionably great man, his belongings were sentimental and meaningful to him, rather than items to be used to push his greatness onto others.
The biggest difference between the two men, however, can be found in their acts rather than their homes. Our tour guides at Jefferson's home discussed his view of slavery. He thought it wrong, but was disinclined to change it. It could be said that his love of fame and extravagance hindered his desire to correct the horrendous system. Although he declared it evil, he dared not even help free the slaves he owned (some his own children); the very slaves he used for his own benefit. It could be debated that he, in fact, did not believe it wrong because of his willingness to participate in the very act without any reservation.
Washington, too, believed slavery to be evil. He, however, did something about this wrongdoing. Although he wished to free slaves, he was concerned they would not survive without training, skills, and education once freed. He knew it would be a process, but one he was willing to help begin. He made sure his own slaves were taught a trade that could give them living wages. He put it in his will that upon his wife's death their slaves would be freed. Not only freed, but given some of their own land to live on. Washington stated that General Lafayette was the prime reason he changed his mind about slavery. The Frenchman convinced him of it's wrongdoing, just as he supposedly helped Jefferson to see. Although the two men agreed on it's horrors, only Washington allowed it to influence how he lived and treated others. His wife, too, agreed--she freed the slaves immediately after Washington's death, rather than allowing their enslavement to continue into her own life.
Jason and I got into a really wonderful discussion from this topic. It is not good enough to simply learn right from wrong--it must impact how you live. Gaining knowledge is of no use if it cannot or will not be used to impact your actions. Suddenly Jason and I began discussing everything from politics, to philosophy, to religion. Our entire ride back was a very meaningful one to me. It's not always that you can discuss your thoughts on big topics like these without conflict arising, but with Jason it's always easy. Even when we've disagreed on our views and beliefs, we've always listened with open minds and without judgment. It's amazing to be in a relationship with someone where the health of the relationship is more important than the need to be right.
I told Jason I regretted not purchasing the large replica of the quarter at Mount Vernon. After our ride back to the hotel, I wanted something to remember our discussion by. I would love to frame the quarter and put a quote from Washington underneath it, as a reminder to not just gain knowledge but to use it, like he did with slavery. This was an important lesson for me this year, as my religious beliefs had changed. I was gaining knowledge that contradicted my core beliefs about life and god. But, out of fear I hesitated to change anything--to even admit it. Finally, I had to concede--my religion from childhood was false and I had to face it head on. Life was changing for me and I could not live as though it was not. I could not be like Jefferson, at least not in this regard.
Finally we arrived back in Staunton, and just in time for dinner. We parked our car and immediately walked to Baja Bean. We were surprised to find the snow had left and the streets returned to wet brick. It was still cold and the inside of the restaurant was warm and welcoming. We sat down and ordered, continued our fascinating discussion, and ate delicious food.
Chips and salsa.
Jason's black bean tacos.
My usual tostada.
After dinner, we walked next door to our favorite ice cream parlor, the Split Banana.
Jason's scoop of Virginia Peanut.
And my coconut scoop. Delicious!
After eating, it was late, so we returned to the hotel and settled in for the night. We packed a little, as today was our last day in Staunton. Tomorrow we would be leaving for Georgia.
